May 2014
I organised this long weekend away last year (all in secret) to celebrate my husband’s 30th birthday, so this was a trip rather close to my heart. I didn’t blog about it at the time – I’ve only started my blog very recently. I owe this blog post though to our charismatic cruise director Alexander Yepremian, who we met onboard the beautiful Celebrity Reflection in May 2015. (Sorry for the delay Alex – hope you find this useful and Congratulations again!!) For anyone else out there who are interested in a bit of a getaway to Iceland, hope this helps you too.
In the recent years Iceland has really raised its status in the world of tourism and become one of the most popular destinations in the world. There is no surprise here though – with its natural beauty that featured effortlessly as the backdrop to the popular TV series “Game of Thornes”. It is also closer than you think (only a 3-hour flight from London and offers direct flights to numerous places worldwide) yet Iceland is far more different than you ever imagined! Glaciers, volcanoes, wildlife, spas – from adventurous activities to luxurious relaxation… you name it, they have it. And the Icelandic people are really nice too! Depending on your travelling style, there are so many different ways to explore Iceland. Many people rent a car to drive around the country. My blog is targeting at a casual 4-day escape. The format of my itinerary is fairly straightforward: using Reykjavík as a base, take excursions during the days, and spend the nights back in the capital.
Getting there
A number of airlines offer direct flights from London to Keflavík International Airport (KEF): Icelandair (who we flew with), or the more budget options WOW air and easyJet. All will get you there in 3 hours, so if you are London-based, travelling on a workday is definitely doable. It is also worth booking a late afternoon/early evening flight home (there is a daily Icelandair flight back to London at 4.30pm and a note to our American friends, most flights to the U.S. depart Reykjavík at 5pm) so that you can stop by the Blue Lagoon and make the most of your travelling day – see the “Day 4” itinerary.
Transfer from the airport into Reykjavík is easy and safe – most tour companies offer this service. We went with Flybus, with wifi-enabled coaches departing from KEF in connection with all arriving passengers flights (approx. 35-40 minutes after each flight arrival). There is a choice between flybus, which takes you to Reykjavík BSÍ Bus terminal, or the flybus+ option that takes you all the way to your hotel or the domestic airport.
Where to stay
Pick somewhere centrally located – a hotel or apartment near the main walking streets, Laugavegur and Skólavörðustígur in Reykjavík 101. We opted for airbnb and stayed at Helga’s fab penthouse downtown w/ hot tub, which is comfortable, spacious and conveniently located on Laugavegur so it makes a perfect spot for walking and exploring everything Reykjavík has to offer (and yes it has a roof-top hot tub!). The best bakery in town is right outside the front door and Bónus Supermarket is only ~180m away, which is very convenient for groceries and general goods. Helga is a great host too – our flight was severely delayed but she stayed up to meet us in the middle of the night. If you prefer hotels, then have a read of this article, as you may find it useful.
Day 1 – Reykjavík
Enjoy a leisurely breakfast/brunch at Bakarí Sandholt, which is a popular bakery/cafe offerings delicious baked goods and a great morning caffein fix. Then stroll over to the harbour and join Elding for a classic whale watching tour (they offer other sea adventure tours too, such as puffin watching and sea angling tours). On the way there, you can have a lunch stop at Icelandic Fish & Chips and enjoy their daily catch. After the excitement spotting whales, puffins, harbour porpoises and many more, go for a walk around Harpa Conference and Concert Center and drink in the view from the top floor, overlooking the beautiful bay and mountains in the distance. You can enjoy a nice pre-dinner cocktail or a glass of wine here at the Kolabrautin Restaurant. Alternatively, jump on bus 14 (with your swimsuits), which will take you to Laugardalslaug for a rejuvenating taste of Iceland’s geothermal bathing culture, soak away whilst exchanging some local knowledge and travel advice with your hot tub companions.
Reservations for dinner are always advised in Reykjavík, and sometimes absolutely necessary. Plan at least a couple of weeks ahead so you won’t be disappointed. Frikrik V seems to be the right place for your first dinner – with a three or five course surprise menu of locally sourced Icelandic cuisine. Having seen its fantastic reviews on TripAdvisor, I was really excited about this place. Unfortunately, we were lucked out as Frikrik V is a family-run restaurant and the owners were away on vacation during our visit. Instead, we went for SNAPS, which was a recommendation from our airbnb host Helga, and were not disappointed.
For an after-dinner drink and some live music, stop in at the Kaffibarinn, or hit up one of the many night-clubs nearby for a rowdier evening.
Day 2 – The Golden Circle
The Golden Circle is one of the most popular tourist routes in South Iceland, covering ~300 km looping from Reykjavík into central Iceland and back, and it’s a must. There is an enormous wealth of day excursions departing from Reykjavík on a daily basis, covering Tþingvellir, the historic rift valley where the Icelandic parliament first convened in 930; Geysir, the geothermal hot spot that lent its name to all geysers; and the majestic Gullfoss waterfall. Yes you can choose to drive around yourself, which is more flexible; or join an 8-hour bus tour from one of the vast number of tour operators, which is the more convenient option. I was looking for something a bit more special so decided to book the Golden Circle & Snowmobiling with Arctic Adventures. This is a bit of a pricer option, but you get to do your entire excursion in a Super Jeep, which is way cooler. To supplement the Golden Circle Sightseeing tour, you’ll also get to spend an entire hour driving a snowmobile on the Langjökull Glacier – 007 much!
After a long day of excursion, you’ll probably be hungry (and maybe a bit tired after all the excitement) arriving back in Reykjavík. 73 Restaurant is the perfect place for a laid-back dinner – good food and service with a great selection of Icelandic Brews.
A note for the beer-lovers: Skjálfti means earthquake in icelandic. The Olvisholt Brewhouse is located in the most geologically active areas in Iceland. In the year 2000, an 6.6 Rickter scale earthquake struck the Olvisholt farm. The origin of the quake only 500 m from the buildings.
Day 3 – Snorkel or Dive in Silfra
We are keen divers so Silfra in Tþingvellir makes a very tempting site, being a crack between the North American and Eurasion continental plates, making it one of the top dive sites in the world. Yes there is limited marine life in the Tþingvellir Lake, due to its cold glacial water from the nearby Langjökull, being 2-4°C year round, the underwater visibility in the Silfra fissure is over 100 m, which creates a rather unique underwater experience. (For those of you who have done cold water diving in the UK, I’m sure you can appreciate what I’m talking about here!)
If you have had prior experience with drysuit diving, then diving in Silfra will make an unmissable experience – how many places are there in the world that could provide you with the opportunity to touch tectonic plates from two different continents?! However, if you aren’t so familiar with cold-water diving but would still like to make the most of what Tþingvellir can offer, then have a go at snorkelling here instead – it’s still quite an experience. The Silfra water is filtered through porous underground lava for 30-100 years until it reaches the north end of Thingvellir lake, seeping out from underground wells. It’s as pristine as water can get so whenever you feel tired while you are snorkelling, just take your snorkel and have a sip of the water, it’s refreshingly delicious (bar a bit cold). Either it is diving or snorkelling you are interested in, I would recommend DIVE.IS, which is s PADI 5 star dive centre and the guys are very friendly and well equipped so they will definitely look after you.
Spend the afternoon strolling around Reykjavík (if you aren’t keen on diving or snorkelling in Silfra and think you have experienced enough of Tþingvellir as part of the Golden Circle tour on the previous day, then you can just spend the day exploring the capital and take it easy). Follow Skólavörðustígur uphill, which will lead you to Reykjavík’s most iconic landmark, Hallgrímskirkja, the church where you can ascend the elevator to the top of the clock tower for a panoramic view of the city. Out front you’ll find a statue of Leifur Eiríksson, the Icelandic explorer who is credited as the first Norse explorer to reach America. If you like sculptures, the Einar Jónsson Museum next door, dedicated to Iceland’s most renowned sculptor, will be worth a visit. There is a great garden just behind the museum, which contains a nice selection of sculptures and is free to enter. After this, wander over to Reykjavik Roasters, a funky little roasters and coffee shop where you can read a book, rest your feet and enjoy a great cup of coffee.
For your last evening in Reykjavík, Grillmarkadurinn (the Grillmarket) is just the right place for a bit of a culinary experience – a magical fusion of tradition and modern cuisine that is the result of a close working collaboration with dedicated local farmers. Their tasting menu will lead you through an array of impressive Icelandic dishes cooked to the highest standard.
Day 4 – The Blue Lagoon
The Blue Lagoon is a spa built around a blue-green geothermal lake within a jet-black expanse of black lava in Grindavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula. Yes, it’s touristy being one of Iceland’s most popular attractions, and yes it’s pricey compared to other spas in Iceland, but it’s still a destination that should not be overlooked. Swim up bar, silica mud mask and lovely warm water that will give your skin a great holiday treat – you won’t regret it! Remember to pre-book your tickets though to take advantage of cheaper online prices and to avoid excessive long queue that has to be otherwise endured if you were a walk-in guest. Sign up with a tour company for transportation to the lagoon on the way to the airport – this will make a relaxing and enjoyable day out of your travelling day. Don’t worry about your luggage – they have thought of everything there at the lagoon. There is a very well-organised luggage storage at the Service Center next to the main parking lot, where they will look after a luggage/bag for you at a mere EUR3. Choose the earliest pickup time offered by your chosen transfer company, often 9am, to get you to the lagoon shortly after it opens at 10am. We went with Bustravel Iceland, which was really good. Allow at least 2 hours for a leisurely soak at the lagoon, more if you plan on indulging on some spa treatments or having lunch at the Lava restaurant, where you can dine in your bathrobe. Personally, I think 4 hours at the lagoon is long enough for some decent relaxation and ideal if you are catching a late afternoon flight home – book the 2pm pickup to head back to the airport. One last words of advice before I sign off: remember to keep your hair out of water, as the geothermal seawater can make it stiff and difficult to manage. The locker rooms at the Blue Lagoon offer lots of (complimentary) conditioner, so don’t forget to generously apply it to your hair and leave it in while you bathe. Enjoy!
Thanks for spending the time to read my itinerary. I really hope you enjoy your trip to Reykjavík and the rest of Iceland. If you have any questions that you think I could help with, please feel free to contact me.
Also, if you have just returned from Iceland, please pop by and leave a comment below. Let me know how you like it and what you did – I’d love to hear about your trip!